Guzhang, in central Hunan Province, has a long reputation for producing high-quality tea, and early spring is when that reputation is most evident. At this point in the season, the young buds are rich in theanine, the amino acid responsible for tea's characteristic savory depth, while the harsher catechins that build astringency later in the year have barely begun to develop. The result is a black tea that is genuinely low in bitterness, not as a trade-off, but as a product of timing and place. Frequent highland fogs slow the growth of the leaves, concentrating their more delicate compounds. A delight to drink and a joy to look at.